are rivet nuts strong enough for jeep plate

He invented a machine specifically for testing the effect of vibrations on threaded fasteners. The evidence against split washers started stacking up in the 1960’s when a gentleman named Gerhard Junker published some of his lab experiments. The only time a split washer might prove useful would be for fastening onto soft easily deformed surfaces such as wood, where the washers springiness & sharp edges could actually work. The problem is that split washers make for poor springs and bottom out after only a small percentage (on order of 10%) of a bolt’s total clamping load. In practice a split washer is unable to gain any purchase against hard surfaces and does not actually prevent rotation. At this point the sharp edges of the washer are supposed to dig into the nut and mounting surface to prevent counter-clockwise rotation.

In theory split washers (aka lock washers or helical spring washers) are supposed to work by squishing flat between the nut and the mounting surface when you tighten them. And yet I see these things in use everywhere, so what gives? Split washers have been experimentally proven to be ineffective locking devices and can even aid self loosening over time. When faced with contradictory test results, if we assume the methodology and integrity of all sources are without fault, it is reasonable to conclude that your results may vary. Many factors could significantly affect testing results including variances from manufacturing process, fastener & clamped materials, heat treating, surface finishes, ambient conditions, and bolt diameter.ġ. In the interest of transparency and good scientific discussion, I’ve provided links to all sources mentioned at the end of point #1.

UPDATED MARCH 2017: It has come to my attention that there is testing data available that makes the counter argument to my first point in this article. What follows are 10 tricks on this ‘basic’ subject that might surprise you! If I run into any problems years down the road, I'll be sure to report back, but I am pretty sure they will outlast the truck.You’d expect an engineer to know everything about a basic subject like nuts and bolts right? Well fasteners are one of those topics that seem simple at first but turn out to have much more depth than you expected. That said, since I have plenty on hand already I will use stainless. I can't imagine their use with steel would be any worse even on salted winter roads (on which many of us would never drive), but to be safer and avoid any potential electrolysis issues I guess it would be better to go with plain old cheap steel rivets. I just happen to have a few pounds of 3/16' stainless rivets on hand from boat work, where they offer good results with aluminum in a salt water environment. I suppose plain steel rivets could be used in place of stainless - they are certainly cheaper. When joining panels, it is proper to cut out the rusted material and join good metal to good metal, same as for welding.

I was talking about stainless rivets joining mild steel panels, but I take your point. It can't possibly last as long as the factory spot welds.

The rivets open up more chance of leakage and corrosion as you have opened more surface area to water penetration with every hole drilled, regardless of sealant used or not. You cannot get all impurities out of 20+ year old metal, especially since it has corroded.Įven if you get it as clean as possible, you are combining un-like metals when you rivet instead of weld. You are talking stainless on dirty steel riveting. Since spot welding is used for assembly of unibodies at the factory and rivets are essentially the same principle (only stronger), the rivets should last as long as the spot welds.I would respectfully disagree.

Are rivet nuts strong enough for jeep plate